Weeks 5 & 6 [Weeks 2 & 3 Board and Train] Homework To Maintain Training

    NOTE 1:  ALL TRAINING SHOULD BE DONE WITH TRAINING COLLAR AND TRAINING LEASH ON (EXCEPT WHEN YOU ARE WORKING OFF LEASH WITH THE ELECTRONIC COLLAR).

NOTE 2:  DO NOT LEAVE THE SLIP LEAD ON WHEN YOU ARE NOT ACTIVELY TRAINING YOUR DOG.

NOTE 3:  PLEASE PUT ON YOUR METAL TRAINING COLLAR CORRECTLY.  ALSO BE SURE TO HOLD THE LEASH CORRECTLY.



This is a link to a leash article on our business blog.  Leashes How to Hold Them and How to Fold Them.

NOTE 4:  START EVERYTHING AT THE BEGINNING IN ENVIRONMENTS AND WITH EQUIPMENT THAT ARE EASY FOR YOU.  YOU WANT TO GET COMFORTABLE WITH WHAT YOUR DOG HAS LEARNED AND HOW TO HANDLE YOUR DOG IN LOW DISTRACTIONS FIRST, SO THAT YOU WILL BEGIN TO FEEL MORE COMFORTABLE IN MORE COMPLICATED OR HIGHER DISTRACTIONS LATER.

NOTE 5:  THE GOALS ARE PLACES TO WORK TO IN THE FUTURE.  IF YOU DON'T MAKE THE GOAL, DON'T WORRY AS LONG AS YOU PUT IN THE WORK TOWARDS THE GOAL.  PLEASE REMEMBER THAT YOU CAN CALL OR EMAIL ME WITH ANY TRAINING PROBLEMS THAT COME UP IN BETWEEN LESSONS.

NOTE 6:  IF YOU DON'T GET THROUGH ALL THE EXERCISES IN ONE DAY, YOU CAN JUST BE SURE THAT THE EXERCISES YOU DID NOT GET TO ARE DONE THE NEXT DAY.   THE MOST IMPORTANT ONE, I THINK, IS THE MOLDED SITS.   HOWEVER, THEY ALL WORK TOGETHER TO START TO CHANGE BEHAVIOR.

NOTE 7:  WHEN YOUR DOG WORKS WITH YOU AT HOME, YOU MAY NEED TO GO DOWN IN TIME AND THEN BUILD BACK UP TO WHERE YOUR DOG WAS TRAINING WITH ME (IF YOU ARE IN PACK LEARNING AND BOARD & TRAIN).  THE DOG WILL WORK BETTER FOR WHOEVER THEY WERE LAST WORKING WITH, SO OFTEN THE TIME NEEDS TO BE BUILT UP BY THE OWNER TO HAVE THE SAME SORT OF WORKING RELATIONSHIP.  ***REMEMBER THAT THE FOUR IN A ROW PERFORMANCES WITHOUT NEEDING A CORRECTION OR CAJOLING ARE WAY MORE IMPORTANT THAN THE LENGTH OR DISTANCE YOUR DOG CAN DO THIS AT RIGHT NOW.

NOTE 8:  TRAINING CAN BE DONE IN SEPARATE SESSIONS.  I LIKE TO KEEP MY SESSIONS AT 15 MINUTES IN DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE DAY (EXCEPT FOR LONG PLACE, SIT ON THE DOG, OR BEHAVIORAL DOWNS).  OTHERWISE, YOU CAN BURN YOUR DOG OR PUPPY OUT.

NOTE 9:  THERE IS A LOT ON HERE, SO YOU CAN GO AS SIMPLY AS YOU NEED TO.  I DID WANT TO MENTION ONE MORE THING REGARDING PROGRESSING YOUR TRAINING.  I LIKE TO ROTATE MY WORK ON ECOLLAR AND MANUAL TRAINING COLLAR (MARTINGALE OR METAL CHAIN COLLAR, ETC.).  SO INSIDE, I MAY DO MORE WORK ON THE DOG DRAGGING THEIR LEASH AT FIRST (OR EVEN HOLDING THEIR LEASH) INSIDE SO I HAVE A GOOD TRAINING RELATIONSHIP INSIDE AND SO THEY DON'T GET THE IDEA THAT THE ELECTRONIC COLLAR IS THE ONLY TIME THEY HAVE TO LISTEN.  I ALSO PUT IN SOME PLAY TRAINING SO IT DOES NOT GET DULL FOR BOTH OF US, TO REALLY GET TO KNOW MY DOG, TO GET HIS YAH YAHS OUT,  AND MAKE TRAINING MORE FUN AND INTERACTIVE FOR BOTH OF US.  THE REASON I DO NOT DO ONE OVER THE OTHER IS THAT I HAVE DISCOVERED THAT DIFFERENT TRAINING TECHNIQUES AND CALMING EXERCISES HAVE DIFFERENT STRENGTHS WHEN WORKED ON THAT INCREASE THE RELATIONSHIP BOND AND MAKE DOGS HAVE AN EASIER TIME WORKING WITH US IN OUR DOMESTIC WORLD.  I DO REALIZE IT CAN BE CONFUSING TO PUT ALL THOSE GEARS IN PLACE AT ONCE.  I JUST WANTED TO GIVE YOU THE FULL PICTURE, AND YOU CAN DECIDE THE EASIEST WAY TO GO FORWARD AND EXPERIMENT.

NOTE 10: THIS IS THE WAY I PHASE OUT TREATS.  YOU CAN PRACTICE SOME THINGS INSIDE WITH TREATS AND NO EQUIPMENT TO KEEP THINGS FRESH.   WHEN I START THAT, I MIGHT DO A TREAT EVERY TIME IF THEY START OUT HAVING A HARD TIME.  AS IT GETS EASIER FOR THEM, I START TO DO EVERY OTHER TREAT.  THEN I DO EVERY FOURTH TREAT, AND EVENTUALLY NO TREATS.  I DON'T USE A MORE COMPLICATED REINFORCEMENT SCHEDULE THAN THAT, ALTHOUGH OTHER TRAINERS MIGHT.  I DO EVENTUALLY WANT TO GET MY DOGS OFF FOOD (SOME FOR OVEREATING AND OTHER HEALTH REASONS), BECAUSE I PREFER THEY WORK FOR ME.   I ALSO PREFER TOY PLAY TRAINING OVER TREAT TRAINING, BUT IT IS HARDER AND SLOWER (ALTHOUGH ONCE YOU GET GOING IT DOES A GREAT JOB WITH ENTHUSIASM AND IMPULSE CONTROL).

NOTE 12:  MARKER WORDS ARE GOOD=GOOD JOB KEEP GOING, YES=GOOD JOB YOU ARE RELEASED FROM THE EXERCISE, AND NO=THAT IS NOT WHAT I AM LOOKING FOR AND TRY AGAIN.

NOTE 123:  BLUE TEXT GOES TO THE DIRECTIONS FOR THE EXERCISES.  [IT IS A LINK]

Homework Schedule:

Calming Exercises:

NOTE:  ROTATE THESE ON ALTERNATE DAYS.  IF YOU HAVE TIME DURING THE DAY OR YOU WISH TO USE ONE OF THESE, YOU CAN'T REALLY OVERDO THESE.  HOWEVER, TO MAINTAIN THIS, YOU ONLY NEED TO DO A HALF HOUR A DAY ON CALMING EXERCISES IN TOTAL.

  1. Sit on the Dog 30 + minutes Goal:  To get your dog to lie down on their own steam in five minutes or under.  NOTE:  YOU SHOULD PROBABLY START THIS INSIDE AT FIRST, IF YOU TRY IT.   THE BIGGEST MISTAKE PEOPLE OFTEN MAKE IS TO KEEP THE LEASH TOO LONG.  IF YOUR DOG CAN EASILY GET COMPLETELY IN FRONT OF YOU OR COMPLETELY IN BACK OF YOU, THE LEASH IS TOO LONG.



  2. Long Place 30 minutes to start  Goal:  To get your dog comfortable and more relaxed staying on their place for thirty minutes.


Obedience Exercises (Ecollar can be with Heeling, Sits, Place, and Let's go.  As I mentioned in the notes, I do like to rotate work with the manual training collar, martingale, or metal training collar, but if it is easier for you, stick with the e-collar work):

NOTE 1:  REMEMBER YOU ONLY NEED TO DO AN HOUR A DAY.  IF YOU DON'T GET TO AN EXERCISE ONE DAY BASED ON TIME OR LIFE, JUST BE SURE TO DO IT THE NEXT DAY.

NOTE 2: TRAINING FOR ME MEANS I NEED TO BE PRESENT WITH MY DOG.  SO MY TRAINING WORK IS OUTSIDE OF WALKING WITH SOMEONE ELSE AND SO ON.  I HAVE TO BE VERY PRESENT TO WORK ON TIMING AND BEING THERE WITH MY DOG.  YOU CAN OF COURSE STILL GO OFF AND DO NON-TRAINING WALKS AND USE YOUR TRAINING; I JUST DON'T CALL THAT MY OFFICIAL FORMAL TRAINING TIME.
  1. Sits with correction: manual collar correction or electronic collar correction if needed 5- 20 minutes Goal:  To get three sets of four in a row sits without needing correction or cajoling in increasing distractions as you move forward.



  2. Let's Go either on leash only or on electronic collar 5-10 minutes  Goal:  To be able to have your dog come towards you until released for 3 sets of 4 in a row without needing a correction.  Also, I have included Let's Go directions without an e-collar (and you can remove the leash if he is doing well and you are in a safe place) if you want to practice these this way too (in bad weather or just to keep his skills up without needing the electronic collar). 

  3. Send to Place 5-10 minutes Goal:  To get your dog to step on themselves for times in a row for 3 sets.

  4. Circle Place 5 plus minutes  Goal:  To be able to perform 4 circle places in a row for one minute.  You could also advance this to one five-minute or more as you go on (this is when I start doing chores around the dog inside or outside (where I would typically be walking and getting stuff).  



Play and Training and Exercise:

NOTE 1:  THE KEY TO PLAYING THESE SORT OF GAMES IS TO REMEMBER THE FLIRT POLE AND THE BALL NEED TO ACT LIKE PREY.  SO IN OTHER WORDS, YOU ARE NOT TRYING TO GET THE DOG TO GET A NON-MOVING OBJECT THAT IS NOT TRYING TO GET AWAY.   

NOTE 2: THE TOYS I USE FOR THIS PARTICULAR ACTIVITY ARE TOYS THAT ARE ONLY BROUGHT OUT FOR PLAY TRAINING.  YOU CAN STILL HAVE REGULAR PLAY WITH OTHER TOYS, BUT BRINGING OUT THESE SPECIAL TOYS INDICATES A SPECIAL TIME FOR US.

  1. Flirt Pole 5 minutes   Goal:  At first is just to get the dog excited about the game.  You want them wanting more when you end the game, NOT worn out completely.



  2. Start Ball Fetch and Retrieve 5 minutes  Goal:  At first is just to get the dog excited about the game.  You want them wanting more when you end the game, NOT worn out completely.  NOTE: THIS VIDEO SHOWS ME DOING IT A LITTLE WITH A FRISBEE INSTEAD OF A BALL.


    THIS IS A DOG NAMED KANE WITH BALLS.

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